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A Trip to the Chesapeake

Elliott Alterman
Windfall

 

Our discussions of planning for a multi-week trip to our old sailing grounds, the Chesapeake Bay, generated interest among some good sailing friends.  As it worked out, those friends were able to join us, in two stages, and enhance our trip tremendously.

Using the Gunkholer’s cruise as a springboard, we (Ina and I and boat dog Zoey) on Windfall, were joined by Kate and Ted Clark (with boat cats Mikey and Lucy) on Feather as we headed north. The weather was great as we worked our way up the ICW stopping at upper Pungo River for our first night.

Pungo River Sunset Replica of the Nina in Elizabeth City

Locking thru Dismal Swamp Canal

Diverging for a bit, Feather zoomed up the Virginia Cut to Norfolk while we, after going through the always-enjoyable Dismal Swamp route, joined them two days later. Anchored at Norfolk for several nights, we explored and dined well. Three nights (at a great price) at the Hampton Public docks allowed us to explore that area and meet a pair of circumnavigators, as well as friends of other good sailing friends in Fairfield Harbour. But enough for land-based activities.

A great sail north led us to the lovely Mobjack Bay anchorage on the East River at Put-in Creek. We dinked up to the little town of Mathews (at high tide!) and enjoyed the location. Then another fine sail left us at Jackson Creek on the Piankatank River. Be advised that the Fishing Bay Yacht Club, a reciprocal club, was very friendly as we sought permission to use their dinghy dock.  Similarly, the Deltaville Marina on Jackson Creek is quite friendly to those on the hook.

Two of the goal locations on the trip were the Corrotoman River and the Tides Inn, both located off the Rappahannock River. The trip from Jackson Creek to the Corrotoman was one of those sailing days you relish and recall for a long time. The weather report offered 15 to 20 knots out of the Southwest becoming 20 knots during the day. Under genoa alone, we sailed from Jackson Creek and rounded Stingray Point heading northwest up the Rappahannock. All was leisurely but the winds soon reached their predicted values, and then some (clocking 30 knots apparent), a bit earlier than expected. Not to worry! Beating to weather, under genoa alone, on but one tack, we hit and held hull speed of almost 8 knots for much of the distance to the Corrotoman! In the lee of the southwest shore of the Rappahannock, the winds did not induce significant waves, but the winds did induce hull speed and joyful cries. Two full days of inhaling the beauty and exploring the lovely creeks and by-ways off the Corrotoman reminded us what cruising is all about.

After a day at Urbanna, we had a short day to the Carter Creek anchorage opposite the Tides Inn, an institution known for its upscale site, services, and dining, the last of which we made sure to sample. It lived up to its reputation. We went away sated, satisfied, and a little lighter in the wallet.

Having been called by our other sailing friends, Elaine and Pete Fisher on Terabithia, we had another leisurely sail back to Jackson Creek to join them. Sadly, Feather had to head back home but we had the pleasure of the company of Pete and Elaine for the rest of the trip.

 

Kate Clark hard at work

Ted hard at work relaxing Zoey hard at work arranging pillows

Feather and Windfall at Tides Inn

 

A downwind sail from Jackson Creek brought Terabithia and Windfall to Mill Creek off the Great Wicomico River, a lovely and almost untouched body of water with good protection yet plenty of opportunity to pick up the evening breezes - in short, a delight. Then the almost inevitable failed attempt to sail and the long motoring trip to Solomon's Island on the Patuxent River. In Solomon's, aside from a pretty good thunderstorm, we had good shopping, the mandatory laundry stop, and a wonderful spot for hors d'oeuvres and beverages - Catamaran's restaurant. Solomon's to Oxford, Maryland, started out under sail and ended up with the Iron Genny. Along the way, we had contacts with two other boats - friends of ours from our Chesapeake Bay Sabre Club background, and friends of Terabithia. In Oxford, we were joined aboard Windfall by some of those friends for
dinner, etc. Exploring Oxford, we met Ed Cutts, owner of Cutts and Case shipyard, and were shown a new wood boat under construction. Ed was mentored by L. Francis Herreshoff, one of boating's most revered names.

Post Oxford, Terabithia and their friends on Atalanta (Kathy and Don), though exploring the Annapolis area as were we, went their separate ways from Windfall. Getting together once again, we regrouped at Drum Point Cove off the Wye River. Two days at St Michaels, then on to Dividing Creek with heavier winds predicted were our next servings of the Chesapeake.
Atalanta and Terabithia

Terabithia at anchor  

Ina, Elaine, Pete, Kathy, Don

Terabithia's Happy Hour Shovel  

From Dividing, we sailed, then mostly sailed back to Solomon's followed by a night in St. Leonard's Creek up the Patuxent River. Along this lovely Creek is found the famous Vera's White Sands Restaurant (closed because of renovations) and some lovely homes. Once again the mandatory motoring from Patuxent to the Great Wicomico. A revisit (for Windfall) and a first trip to the Corrotoman and the Tides Inn (Terabithia) reinforced our memories of those places.

Boat house on St. Leonard's Creek Terabithia and Windfall at Carter Creek

The next day was a long trip back to Norfolk, primarily under sail and with the current, as we made net speeds sometimes over 9 knots. From Norfolk, Terabithia took the Virginia Cut back and Windfall, once again via the Dismal Swamp, stopped in Elizabeth City to visit some old friends from Annapolis days. Both boats came back in heavy winds and seas making the last couple of days a bit uncomfortable but not even beginning to erase the wonderful experiences of the voyage.



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